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Oops!
Just as I branded Madhur Jaffrey's cookery writing style as strictly
'upper class' Indian, up she comes with a basic introductory version.
Her new book 'Foolproof Indian Cookery', which is alas not accompanied
by a BBC TV Series, is meant to be a step-by-step guide to everyone's
favourite cuisine.
Still
smarting from my last Jaffrey recipe attempt, 'Chettinad Pepper
Chicken' that took hours to prepare and was subsequently consigned
to the back-end of the bottom freezer compartment, I approached
this new collection warily!
True-to-form,
this foolproof books starts by explaining all the major ingredients,
the necessary equipment and basic conversion for weights and measures.
It then proceeds in text-book fashion with over forty recipes covering
everything from soups & starters to fish, eggs, poultry, meat,
vegetables and accompaniments.
Sadly, the last category means raita, lassi, chutneys and relishes
rather than a handsome dining partner!
And
indeed, they are all there. The most popular recipes I mean. Chicken
Tikka, easy Kebabs (why easy I wondered?), the aptly named fish
in green sauce, Goan Prawn Curry, Keema Mattar, Rogan Josh and even
Chicken Tikka Masala. Indeed, much of the average curry house menu
resides between the pages of this book.
By
sticking to the basics, Madhur Jaffrey could hardly go wrong, but
you'd be a fool to think that the recipes are idiot proof. Ms Jaffrey's
penchant for cayenne pepper and paprika in favour of fresh green
chillies means that many of the recipes lack the fire that you would
seek in Indian cooking. Well, at least I do.
Her
Cachumber (Kachumber), for example, is not as flavourful as Keith
Floyd's version, lacking fresh green chillies and cucumber. The
'green lentils with lemon slices' recipe was another attempt quickly
consigned to the freezer and the Moghlai Lamb with Sultanas was
decidedly bland. The Chicken Tikka and easy Kebabs left me disappointed,
as did the Keema Mattar. Her Akoori recipe (Indian Scrambled eggs)
and Moghlai Spinach with browned shallots are delicious and simple
to cook though. I must admit that I avoided the easy mulligatawny
soup and the spinach and okra soup that seemed to be venturing too
far into Anglo-Indian cuisine.
Herein
lies the weakness of this book. Whom exactly is it targeting? Non-Asians
looking to cook a "safe" curry or Asians who don't know
how to cook? Perhaps even both categories? The abundance of curry
houses and the huge take-up in Indian Cuisine among the UK population
means that our palettes are more attuned to Indian Cooking. The
problem is that the recipes in this book may seem bland in comparison
to same dish that you might buy from your local curry house. Hardly
inspirational for those wanting to take up this cuisine.
Ms
Jaffrey's menu suggestions like what to make for an 'Elegant Dinner
Party for 6' or a 'Dinner Buffet for 20' are totally pointless.
A novice cook is hardly likely to attempt an Indian Dinner for 20
people based on the forty recipes in this book. Time to call the
caterer methinks!
Click
here to buy this book today!

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