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Maldives
Resorts
in the Maldives woo tourists with promises of 'the last paradise
on earth', and if your idea of paradise is a pristine tropical island
with swaying palm trees, pure white beaches and brilliant turquoise
lagoons, then the Maldives will not disappoint. It's also a major
destination for scuba divers, who come for the fabulous coral reefs
and the wealth of marine life. But it's not a place for low budget
backpackers or amateur anthropologists who want to travel independently
and live as the locals do.
Tourism
in the Maldives is carefully managed. The country's tourism master
plan identifies both the underwater environment and 'the Robinson
Crusoe factor' as major attractions, but these are not seen as compatible
with large-scale, low budget, mass tourism. The lack of local resources
makes it necessary to import virtually everything a visitor needs,
from furniture to fresh vegetables, so the Maldives cannot really
compete on price. The strategy has been to develop a limited number
of quality resorts, each on its own uninhabited island, free from
traffic, crime and crass commercialism.
The
Maldivian tourism strategy also aims to minimise the adverse effects
of tourism on traditional Muslim communities. Tourists can make
short guided visits to local fishing villages, but must then return
to their resort. Most are satisfied with this glimpse of local life
and culture, but to stay longer or to travel to atolls outside the
tourist zone requires a good reason, a special permit, and a local
person to sponsor the visitor. Most tourists come to understand
the restrictions after a short visit to an accessible island - it
is difficult to imagine how isolated Maldivian communities would
benefit from extended stays by an uncontrolled number of tourists.
Like
it or not, this highly regulated tourist industry has been enormously
successful - there are more and better resorts, a steady increase
in visitor numbers, and a minimal impact on the natural and social
environment. The Maldives is internationally recognised as a model
for sustainable, environment-friendly tourist development.
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Destination
Facts
Full
country name: Republic of Maldives
Area: 298 sq km (115 sq mi)
Population: 301,475
Capital city: Malé (pop. 62,973)
People: Sinhalese, Dravidian, Arab, African
Language: Maldivian Divehi
Religion: Sunni Muslim
Government: Republic
President: Maumoon Abdul Gayoom
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Economic
Profile
GDP: US$500 million
GDP per head: US$1840
Annual growth: 5.8%
Inflation: 6.3%
Major industries: fish processing, tourism, shipping, boat
building, coconut processing, garments, woven mats, rope, handicrafts,
coral and sand mining, coconuts, corn, sweet potatoes, fish
Major trading partners: Sri Lanka, US, Germany, Singapore,
UK, India, Hong Kong, Japan, Thailand
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Environment
The
Maldives is a chain of 26 coral atolls south-west of Sri Lanka,
extending across the equator in a north-south strip 754km (468mi)
long and 118km (73mi) wide. The 1192 low-lying coral islands are
so small that dry land makes up less than 4% of the country's total
territory. Some islands are uninhabited sandbars with a patch of
scrub, while others are several km across and quite well vegetated.
Most
of the time the lagoons are a brilliant blue, with amazing coral
reefs and abundant marine life. Although strict local regulation
of fishing and commercial exploitation has kept the marine environment
in a near-pristine state, in 1998 the reefs began feeling the effects
of El Ninõ. A rise in sea temperature, lasting two weeks,
stripped the reefs of a symbiotic algae that caused 'bleaching'
of the coral polyps. While bleaching can be devastating, most of
the Maldive coral reefs emerged unscathed, and it appears the process
has not harmed any other marine life. Marine biologists and reef-watchers
believe the process to be cyclical and are watching the growth of
the new coral with avid interest. In short, the reefs are still
a scuba diving and snorkelling wonder world, although they have
temporarily lost some of their technicolour splendour.
Though
many of the bigger islands look like the picture-perfect, palm-fringed
tropical fantasy, most have poor, sandy soil which supports only
a limited range of plants - bamboo, pandanus, banana, mangroves,
breadfruit trees, banyans, tropical vines and numerous coconut palms.
The larger, wetter islands have small areas of rainforest. The main
crops are limited to sweet potatoes, yams, taro, millet and watermelon,
though a few more fertile islands have citrus fruits and pineapples.
Natural
fauna is sparse - giant fruit bats, colourful lizards and the occasional
rat. Domestic animals include cats, a few chickens, goats and some
rabbits. The most exciting wildlife is under the water. Anyone with
a mask and snorkel will see butterfly fish, angel fish, parrot fish,
rock cod, unicorn fish, trumpet fish, bluestripe snapper, Moorish
idols, oriental sweetlips and more. Larger life forms, eagerly sought
by scuba divers, include sharks, stingrays, manta rays, turtles
and dolphins.
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History
The
first inhabitants probably arrived in the archipelago from Ceylon
(Sri Lanka) and southern India before 500 BC. One theory is that
the islands were at the trading crossroads of several maritime nations
as early as 2000 BC. Maldivians believe that an ancient race of
sun-worshipping people called the Redin were the first settlers,
and left a heritage of beliefs and customs involving evil spirits,
or jinnis, still evident today.
The
Redin left around 500 BC or were absorbed by Buddhists from Ceylon
and by Hindus from India. Because building materials were limited,
each group built its important structures on top of those left by
previous inhabitants. This is why many Maldivian mosques are oriented
towards the sun and not Mecca. Arab traders en route to the Far
East recorded visits to the Maldives from the 2nd century AD. Known
as the 'Money Isles', they provided enormous quantities of cowrie
shells, an international currency of the early ages.
The
conversion to Islam, in 1153 AD, is a watershed in Maldivian history.
According to legend, a sea jinni called Rannamaari demanded regular
sacrifices of young virgin girls in Malé. Abu Al Barakat,
a visiting North African Arab took the place of a sacrificial virgin,
and drove the demon away by reading from the Koran, the Islamic
holy book. The Maldivian king at the time was sold on Islam, and
Barakat later became the first sultan. A series of six sultanic
dynasties followed - 84 sultans and sultanas in all. At one stage,
when the Portuguese first arrived in the 16th century, there were
actually two ruling dynasties: the Malei and the Hilali.
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The
Portuguese, eager for a greater share of the profitable trade routes
of the Indian Ocean, were granted permission to build a fort and
a factory in Malé, but it wasn' t long before they wanted
more from the Maldives. In 1558, Captain Andreas Andre led a Portuguese
invasion which killed Sultan Ali VI. Andre ruled Malé and
much of the country for the next 15 years. Portuguese occupation
came to a sticky end in 1573 when an island chief, Mohammed Thakurufaan,
led an attack on the main Portuguese garrison and slew the lot.
In
the 17th century, the Maldives came under the protection of the
Dutch and later the British, but neither established a colonial
administration. In the 1860s Borah merchants from Bombay set up
warehouses and shops in Malé, and quickly acquired an almost
exclusive monopoly on foreign trade. Sultan Mohammed Mueenuddin
II, weary of the Borahs' economic grip, signed an agreement with
the British in 1867 which guaranteed the islands' full independence.
The Maldives subsequently became a British protectorate, and allowed
the British to establish defence facilities.
The
sultanate became an elected rather than a hereditary position when
the islands' first constitution was drawn up in 1932. In 1953 the
sultanate was abolished and a republic proclaimed with Amin Didi
as the first president. Less than a year later Didi was overthrown;
the sultanate was returned with Mohammed Farid Didi elected as the
94th sultan of the Maldives. Around the same time, the British secured
permission to re-establish its wartime airfield on Addu Atoll in
the far south of the country. In 1956 the Royal Air Force began
developing the base as a staging post, employing hundreds of Maldivians
and undertaking the resettlement of the Gan islanders. But when
Ibrahim Nasir was elected prime minister in 1957 he immediately
called for a review of the agreement, demanding that the lease be
shortened and the annual payment increased.
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This
was followed by an insurrection against the government by the inhabitants
of Addu and Suvadiva (Huvadu) atolls who objected to Nasir's demand
that the British cease employing local labour. Influenced by the
British presence, they decided to cut ties altogether and form an
independent state. In 1962 Nasir sent gunboats to the southern atolls
and the rebellion was quashed. Britain recognised the islands' sovereignty
soon after and in 1965, the Maldives became fully independent.
Following
a referendum in 1968 the sultanate was again abolished and a new
republic inaugurated with Nasir as president. His autocratic rule
ended a decade later when, fearing for his life, he fled the country
for Singapore. The progressive Maumoon Abdul Gayoom was elected
president in his place. Gayoom has been in power ever since, surviving
coup attempts in 1980 and 1988. He was nominated for a fourth five-year
term in 1993, and his presidency was confirmed by an overwhelming
referendum.
Recent
years have been characterized by modernisation, rapid economic growth,
and improvement in most social indicators. The main contributors
to this growth have been the fishing industry, tourism and foreign
aid. There are pressures for political liberalisation on one hand
and for a more traditional Muslim way of life on the other. The
government also needs to strike a balance between preserving the
environmental quality of the islands and further developing tourism
and fishing.
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Facts
for Travellers
Visas: Visas are required for most nationalities, but are
free and can be obtained on arrival.
Health risks: Sunburn
Time: GMT/UTC plus five hours
Electricity: 220-40V, 50 Hz
Weights & measures: Metric
Tourism: 300,000 visitors per year
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Money
& Costs
Currency: Rufiya (Rf)
Budget
meal: US$1-3
Moderate
restaurant meal: US$3-10
Top-end
restaurant meal: US$10-20
Budget
room: US$25-35
Moderate
hotel: US$35-70
Top-end
hotel: US$70 and upwards
If
you stayed in Malé on a budget, you could get by on around
US$35 per day if you shared a room. The cheapest resorts start at
around US$50 per day in the low season, for a standard double room
with full board. At most resorts, for most of the year, a double
room with full board will cost around US$100 a day or more. Diving
costs vary from resort to resort but keen divers expecting to undertake
about 10 dives a week should allow about US$350 per week if they
have their own equipment or US$500 per week if they rent everything.
On a dive safari, the costs can be anywhere between US$60 to US$160
per day, depending on the luxury, plus another US$70 or so for diving.
Unless you're content to bask on the beach all day, expect to spend
around US$30 per day hiring windsurfers, snorkel gear, tennis courts,
etc.
If
you stay at a resort, you don't need to carry money at all since
everything will be billed to your room and you can settle up when
you leave with travellers' cheques or credit cards (American Express,
Visa and MasterCard are best). It's best to carry money in US dollar
denominations, but British pounds, German marks and Italian lira
are all pretty acceptable. You won't need Maldivian rufiya unless
you're using local shops and services.
Officially,
tipping is discouraged in the Maldives. Unofficially, if the service
is good - and it usually is - it's quite customary to tip room staff
and waiters in your resort. US$10 per week is a suitable amount.
A few resorts add a 10% service charge, in which case there's no
need to tip. Bargaining is limited to tourist shops in and around
Singapore Bazaar in Malé and at island village souvenir shops
where prices are not fixed.
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Culture
Though
performances of traditional music and dance are not everyday events,
there is a contemporary Divehi culture which is strong and adaptive,
despite foreign influences which range from Hindi movies and Oriental
martial arts to Michael Jackson and Muslim fundamentalism. Western
fashions, pop music and videos are visible in the capital, but on
public occasions, like the beginning and end of Ramadan, the celebrations
always have a distinctly Maldivian touch. There are three daily
newspapers and several magazines in the unique national language,
rock bands who sing Divehi lyrics, and multi-storey buildings which
echo the architecture of Maldivian island houses.
A odu
beru means a big drum, and gives its name to the best known
form of traditional music and dance. It's what tourist resorts put
on for a local culture night, and it can be quite sophisticated
and compelling. Dancers begin with a slow, nonchalant swaying and
swinging of the arms, and become more animated as the tempo increases,
finishing in a rhythmic frenzy. There are four to six drummers in
an ensemble, and the sound has strong African influences. Contemporary
local rock bands often perform at resorts where they do credible
covers of the usual old favourites. Performing for a local audience
they may incorporate elements of bodu beru in their music, with
lots of percussion and extended drum solos. Cassettes from local
bands are sold in Malé music shops.
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Islam
is the national religion and all Maldivians are Sunni Muslims. No
other religions are permitted, though ancient beliefs survive: for
example, islanders fear jinnis - evil spirits which come
from the sea, land and sky. These are blamed for everything that
cannot be explained by religion or science.
Fish
and rice are the staple foods of Maldivians with meat and chicken
eaten only on special occasions. National dishes include fried fish,
fish curry and fish soup. Arecanut (an oval nut chewed with betel
leaf, cloves and lime) is the equivalent of an after-dinner mint.
Alcohol is only available in tourist resorts. The local brew is
raa, a sweet and delicious toddy tapped from the crown of
the palm trunk. Apart from coconuts, there are very few fruits and
vegetables grown on the islands, so most of the food served at tourist
resorts is imported.
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Events
Most
holidays are based on the Islamic lunar calendar and the dates vary
from year to year. The most important religious event is Ramadan
(known locally as rorda mas), the Islamic month of fasting.
Other noteworthy events are Kuda Id, the sighting of the
new moon (celebrated at the end of Ramadan), and the Prophet's Birthday,
which commemorates the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed. Fixed holiday
dates include: National Day (the day Mohammed Thakurufaan
and his men overthrew the Portuguese on Malé in 1573, the
first day of the third month of the lunar calendar); Victory
Day (victory over Sri Lankan mercenaries who tried to overthrow
the Maldivian government on 3 November 1988); and Republic Day
(which commemorates the current republic, founded on 11 November
1968).
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Climate
Generally,
the year is divided into two monsoon periods: the north-east monsoon
or ruvai lasts from December to March, which are the drier
months; the south-west monsoon or ulhangu lasts from April
to November, and is wetter, with more storms and occasional strong
winds. Daytime temperatures are about 28°C (82°F) all year.
The humidity is slightly lower in the dry season but most days there's
a cooling sea breeze.
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When
to Go
If
you're looking for a few extra hours of sunshine then you should
visit the Maldives between December and April, which is the dry
season. This is the high season, however, and resorts can be fully
booked and prices are higher than the rest of the year. The Christmas-New
Year period is the busiest and most expensive part of the high season.
Between May and November it's still warm, but the skies can be cloudy,
humidity is higher and rain is more likely. This is the low season,
and there are fewer tourists and prices are lower. The transition
months of November and April are said to be associated with increased
water clarity and better visibility for divers.
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Activities
Scuba
diving is the main attraction in the Maldives, and it's estimated
that over 60% of visitors dive at least once. There are hundreds
of recognised and named dive sites, many of which are accessible
from resorts - the rest can be reached by boat on diving safari
trips. Aside from multitudinous fish and corals, there's the thrill
of diving with turtles, moray eels, manta rays, sharks and whales
and exploring some of the Maldives accessible wrecks, including
the Maldive Victory off Hulule Airport, believed by many
enthusiasts to be one of the most exciting wreck dives in the world.
Virtually every resort runs a diving school to keep its guests occupied,
but you can also just don a mask and flippers and swim a couple
of strokes from a beach to enjoy the delights of the Maldives' submarine
world.
Surfing
has become more popular in the islands since there are excellent
breaks accessible from resorts close to Malé. Surfing safaris
to the outer atolls can also be arranged. It's always best to book
surf trips with a reputable surf travel operator, because the Maldives
is definitely not the sort of place where a surfer can rock up with
a few boards and head for the waves. For the avid watersport enthusiast
there are plenty of opportunities to go sailing, parasailing,
windsurfing, waterskiing and jetskiing. Big
game fishing is an upmarket option at some resorts, but there
is a 'tag and release' policy, so you can't keep your catch. If
you can't get your fill in the daytime, you can also go night
fishing on board a dhoni (a traditional boat). Some people
can just never get enough, which must be why banana riding
has become a popular pastime at resorts. This involves up to a dozen
people climbing onto a giant, inflatable banana which is then dragged
around a lagoon by a speedboat. Coconut volleyball is only a matter
of time.
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Attractions
Malé
Small,
quaint, and densely settled, Malé (pronounced 'Mar-lay')
is not spectacular, but quite unique as a capital city. It's clean
and tidy, with mosques, markets, a maze of small streets and a certain
charm all its own. While it sometimes gives the impression of a
sleepy country town, there is new building work everywhere, and
the place feels like it will soon burst at the seams.
The
island of Malé is about 2km (1.2mi) long and 1km (0.62mi)
wide, and packed to the edges with buildings, roads and a few well-used
open spaces. Officially, the population is around 65,000, but with
foreign workers and short-term visitors from other islands, there
may be as many as 100,000 people in town - it certainly feels like
it. The size of the island has been more than doubled through land
reclamation projects and nearby islands are used for the airport
and other purposes. There are plans to develop other islands to
reduce the pressure on Malé.
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Among
the city's modest attractions is the National Museum, which
houses untidy exhibits of the sultans' belongings and a smattering
of Thor Heyerdahl's archaeological discoveries - many of the ancient
stone carvings and figurines are featured in his book The Maldive
Mystery. Near the museum is the pleasant Sultan Park,
and the imposing white Islamic Centre & Grand Friday Mosque
which dominates the city's skyline.
There
are over 20 other mosques scatttered around Malé, some little
more than a coral room with an iron roof. The oldest is the Hukuru
Miski, famed for its intricate stone carvings. One long panel,
carved in the 13th century, commemorates the introduction of Islam
to the Maldives, while outside a graveyard holds the tomb of Abu
Al Barakat and the tombstones of former sultans.
Other
sights include the Singapore Bazaar, a conglomeration of
stores selling some quality local handicrafts and an assortment
of Maldivian and imported tourist knick-knackery. Also interesting
are the shops selling home hardware, marine equipment, fishing gear
and general merchandise for local villages. In the many small teahouses
Maldivian men enjoy 'short eats' (small snack meals), smoking, chewing
and talking.
Malé
has inexpensive food and accommodation, but nightlife is confined
to teahouses and a few western style restaurants. A couple cinemas
show Hindi epics and Hollywood blockbusters. Malé's expatriates
head to a nearby resort on their day off.
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Seenu
(Addu Atoll)
This
is the 'second city' of the Maldives, and the resort here is the
best base from which to visit traditional Maldivian island communities.
The Addu people are fiercely independent, speak differently from
folk in the capital and at one time even tried to secede from the
republic.
The
biggest influence on Addu's modern history has been the British
bases, first established on the island of Gan during WWII, as part
of the Indian Ocean defences. In 1956, the British developed a Royal
Air Force base as a strategic Cold War outpost. The base had around
600 permanent personnel, with up to 3000 during periods of peak
activity. They built a causeway connecting Feydhoo, Maradhoo and
Hithadhoo islands, and employed most of the local men. In 1976 the
British pulled out, but many of their employees, who spoke good
English and had experience working for westerners, were well qualified
for jobs in the soon-to-be-booming tourist industry.
Tourist
development in Addu itself has been slow to start, but a resort
has been established in the old RAF buildings on Gan and there are
now reliable connections to the capital in a new Air Maldives jet.
The Ocean Reef Resort is not a typical Maldives tropical paradise
resort island, but the old military base is a unique feature. Gan
is linked by causeways to the adjacent islands, and it's easy and
pleasant to get around them by bicycle, giving unmatched opportunities
to visit the local villages and see village life.
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Resorts
The
vast majority of visitors come to the Maldives on package tours,
staying at one of the 70-plus resort islands. Most resorts are in
the three atolls closest to the capital - North Malé Atoll,
South Malé Atoll and Ari Atoll. There are a few other resorts
on nearby atolls, and these might be further developed in the future.
Judging by the brochures, all the resorts are beautiful and are
blessed with white sand, blue sea and swaying palm trees, and they
all promise great diving. Despite their apparent similarity, however,
they differ considerably in their comfort, cuisine, clientele, character
and their suitability for various excursions and activities.
The
quality of accommodation and food is pretty much related to price
- none of the Maldives resorts is bad, but then none is exactly
cheap either. Some have modern, motel-style rooms, while others
are more rustic, with thatched roofs and sand floors. The larger,
cheaper resorts attract more young people, more singles, and tend
to be casual in style and full of people out to have a good time.
Smaller resorts are more intimate and cosy, and may appeal to couples
and honeymooners. Some resorts cater more or less exclusively to
certain nationalities, notably Italian, German, French and Japanese
guests. All resorts offer scuba diving, but some are known as hardcore
divers' destinations. Note that some resorts having better access
to specific dive sites, local Maldivian villages, or to the capital
city than others.
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Off
the Beaten Track
Fuamulaku
This
solitary island in the middle of the Equatorial Channel is something
of an anomaly in the Maldives. It is exceptionally fertile, producing
fruits and vegetables not grown elsewhere in the country, like mangoes,
oranges and pineapples. The people are said to be bigger and healthier
and to live longer than other islanders.
Kudahuvadhoo
In
South Nilandhoo Atoll, the island of Kudahuvadhoo has one of the
mysterious mounds known as hawittas. They are probably the
ruins of Buddhist temples, but have not been thoroughly investigated
by archaeologists. Thor Heyerdahl explored the island, and commented
that its old mosque had some of the finest masonry he had ever seen,
surpassing even the famous Inca wall in Cuzco, Peru. He was amazed
to find such a masterpiece of stone-shaping art on such an isolated
island, though it had a reputation in the Islamic world for finely
carved tombstones.
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Baa
Atoll
Baa
Atoll is famous for its handcrafts, which include lacquer work and
finely woven cotton felis (traditional sarongs). The small,
isolated atoll of Goidhoo has been a place for castaways
and exiles. The French explorer François Pyrard, found himself
here in 1602 after his ship, the Corbin, was wrecked.
Getting
There & Away
There
are regular flights to Colombo (Sri Lanka), Thrivandrum (south-west
India), Dubai (United Arab Emirates), and Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia),
as well as many charter flights from European centres. Malé
International Airport is the only international gateway; departure
tax is $US10. There are regular cargo ships, but they don't usually
take passengers. The Maldives is not popular with private yachts
because the reefs are so hazardous and cruising permits are restrictive
and expensive.
Tourism
is strictly regulated, and independent travel is discouraged because
it is seen as disruptive to traditional island communities. Those
wanting to see the Maldivian way of life can stay in Malé,
the intriguing capital city, and make daytime visits to island communities
close to tourist resorts. It's not impossible to visit the outer
islands, but it's difficult enough to deter all but the most dedicated
and determined. An Inter Atoll Travel Permit is required to visit
islands outside the tourist zone, and the Ministry of Atolls Administration
will only issue them to those whose visit is sponsored by a resident
of the island concerned.
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Getting
Around
Air
Maldives, the small national airline, has regular and very scenic
flights to the four air strips in the outer atolls. Helicopters
and seaplanes are used to transfer guests to some of the remoter
resorts. The main form of local transport is the dhoni, a
traditional all-purpose vessel now usually powered by a diesel engine.
Larger boats called vedis are used for longer trips to outer
atolls. Safari cruises in modified, live-aboard honis are
increasingly popular, especially with dive groups who want to reach
more remote sites. Most safari trips cruise around the tourist zone,
but it is possible to arrange longer trips to the outer atolls -
the operator will have to obtain the necessary permits. Most islands
are so small that transport is not a problem, but there are taxis,
motorcycles and bicycles in the capital.
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Recommended
Reading
People
of the Maldive Islands by anthropologist Dr Clarence Maloney
is the best general reference on the history of the country, but
it is not readily available, even in the Maldives. More accessible,
and just as readable, is The Fascinating Maldives by Mohamed
Farook.
History
buffs should try to find The Maldive Islands: Monograph on the
History, Archaeology & Epigraphy by H C P Bell, who attempted
to explain the tangible, although insubstantial, remains of early
civilisations. Much of his work was later supported, challenged
and expanded in The Maldive Mystery by Kon-Tiki explorer
Thor Heyerdahl.
Marine
biologist Dr Charles Anderson has put together Maldives,
the Diver's Paradise, Diving Reefs of the Maldives and the Diver's
Guide to the Sharks of the Maldives: three great pictorials
to whet your appetite before heading for the depths. Also by Dr
Anderson, in conjunction with Ahmed Hafiz, are the identification
guides Common Reef Fishes of the Maldives parts one, two
and three. All six books are published by Novelty Press, and most
can be found in resort shops.
Dive
Maldives by Tim Godfrey describes all of the established dive
sites in detail, and is a good investment and souvenir.
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